Kathleen Nowak Tucci, Eco-Designer

A stirring photo spread in the August 2010 issue of Vogue Italia was inspired by the Gulf oil spill, leaving readers wondering if the magazine crossed from evocative to insensitive. The 24-page editorial photo shoot was by famed photographer Steven Meisel and depicted model Kristen McMenamy. Kathleen Nowak Tucci's necklace was on the cover of the controversial August 2010 issue of Italian Vogue.

EG: Kathleen, thank you for taking the time to answer some questions! What first drove you to become an eco-fashion designer?

I was really the properties of the material of the recycled rubber that first intrigued and drew me to create my architectural green jewelry line. Used bicycle and motorcycle inner tubes are readily available, rarely recycled and usually end up in landfills.  The rubber is light weight and easily manipulated.  It lends itself to dramatic jewelry and accessories that have little weight and are easy to wear. 

In early 2010, I acquired some bicycle inner tubes from a bicycle shop in Pensacola Florida, and although my initial working with the rubber did not lead to the first project I had in mind, the extra tubes remained in a corner of my studio for several months.  Always curious and compulsively creative, I returned to the pile of rubber one day and just “played” with it.  From those odd scraps and pieces evolved necklaces, bracelets that further entranced my imagination.

EG:  Can you explain to our readers the concept behind your design? How are consumers reacting on your brand? Is it more difficult to sell eco-jewelry?

I have always made my work in components- smaller parts of a whole work.  With my rubber jewelry, it may be long triangular pieces that I call shreds, which are assembled to create a bracelet or a necklace.  Strips of inner tubes wait to be connected together along with other shapes such as circles, triangles of flowers.  I like to have many parts pre-cut out and ready for whatever combination strikes my fancy.
I have always liked C and S curves juxtaposed against geometric shapes such as squares, circles and triangles.  I feel strongly influenced by art-deco furniture, architecture and fashion. 

Consumers have always reacted well to my jewelry.  My work is driven by design and the properties of the rubber and not any fashion trends.  Having been an artist for the past 25 years has given me the skills and knowledge to create this line.  I don't follow current fashion trends but from the art world and good design is my main focus.

I think most consumers buy my work for the designs and it is an added bonus that it Eco.  At first look, almost no one knows that it is made of used inner tubes.  The tubes go through a washing process that removes the “inner tube smell” and odor is not an issue. 

EG:  You are a great person who’s actually taking action to change the world. What’s the fuel that keeps you going?

I live on the Gulf Coast and saw the devastation of the Gulf Oil Spill.  Our area is still recovering from the economic and environmental repercussions of the Spill. When my work appeared on the Cover of Vogue Italia Aug 2010 for the Oil Spill Issue, I was thrilled to be a part of the vision of stylist Karl Templer, photographer Steven Meisel and editor Franca Sozzani.

I never considered this glamorized, I thought it was disturbing and thought provoking and utterly fascinating in its interpretation of the struggle for survival.  It is controversial and interpretive which is indicative of great artistic expression.

It has now been a year since the Oil Spill and I recently collaborated with photographer James Amerson and model Camile Dauchez, for a photo shoot, to show the healing powers of nature and the beginning of the recovery of our beloved beaches. Our idea was to show a vibrant, rising mermaid that directly related to the dying mermaid on the Vogue cover. 

EG:  What is the most difficult thing about your job?

The most difficult thing is to be able to stay creative and to handle the business end of a high fashion line.  It is a constant juggling act. 

EG: What is your favorite item in your personal wardrobe and what is the one no-fail, timeless item that every woman should have in her closet?

 My favorite item in my wardrobe is a great pair of black pants that fit well, travel well and don’t have to be ironed.  Great jewelry and accessories worn with confidence can “make” any outfit.  If you have basics in neutral colors, you can mix and match, then add a great piece of jewelry and you will be ready for most any occasion.

EG:  In light of the massive tragedy that is the Gulf oil spill, what is the biggest glimmer of hope you see in the region and what can we expect from you in the future?

Last summer was so tragic for the Gulf Coast much of our economy is driven by tourism and seafood from the Gulf.  Tourism virtually dried up and seafood was not consumed from the Gulf.  This affected the entire economy of our area.  Many businesses closed or barely held on.  This summer people are coming back to our beautiful white sand beaches. Hopefully the return of the tourist will be enough to keep more businesses from closing. 

Our beaches are looking great, however we all worried about the long term effects of the spill.  The Oil Spill certainly made us realize the fragility of the Gulf ecosystem and how important it is to take care of this amazing natural resource. 

I plan on continuing to work with recycled rubber.  It is still a new medium for me and new ideas are still waiting to be explored. I have been invited to show my work at the Smithsonian Craft2Wear show in Washington DC October 22-23. 

Learn more about the Kathleen Nowak Tucci collection online at her official Web site.